DESIGN-A-PATTERN XV

DESIGN-A-PATTERN XV

from Ileen's Needle Nook (www.ileen.com)

written by Mike and Ileen Levy (ileen@ileen.com)

 

A one-piece baby outfit was used to illustrate Design-A-Pattern Volume #5.  Bramwell Fine 4-Ply yarn was used for this outfit.. 

Volume #5 Screen Descriptions

 

1) Information Screen Description

Styling was selected on the Information Screen for a 1-piece sweater with leggings ("onesie").  Adjustable crew necklines (front and back) and rounded armhole shaping were also selected

 

2) Measurements Screen Description

Starter measurements were used for a 16" baby doll.  Adjustable starter sizing options are available for dolls (4 types), babies (3-24 months), toddlers (sizes 2T-5T) and children (sizes 2-18).

 

3) Design Screen Description

Garment panels are displayed to calculate rows and stitches directly from black pixels on this screen.   Panels are automatically redrawn when measurement or styling options are changed.  For this garment, sizing was adjusted to allow for ½ inch trim on the front midline, neckline and cuffs.  Extra length was added to back panel inseam to create a 'sock' effect

 

4) Graphic and Text Printout Screen Descriptions

The graphics screen is used to create pictures of pattern panels with various grid overlays while the Text Printout screen is used to create pattern text directions.  Outputs from both screens can be copied, edited or printed.  The front panel with a row/stitch overlay is shown on the graphics output screen.

 

ROW-BY-ROW PATTERN DIRECTIONS

 

Design-A-Pattern row-by-row directions read like a knitting machine showing right-side and left-side (-) needles for each row when the number of in-work needles increase or decrease.   Straight knitting is used between listed row numbers.  Knitted rows for body panels are also listed as an alert to start armhole or neckline shaping.

Knitting Description for 1-piece Leggings Outfit

Pattern Style    : 1-PIECE: LEGGING BOTTOM  

Armhole Style    : ROUNDED SET-IN

Necklines: Front & Back = ADJUSTABLE CREW

Yarn Name: Bramwell Fine 4-Ply   

Yarn Gauges: 8.5 Rws/Inch & 7.5 Sts/Inch

 

MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY (Inches)   PANEL   PANEL

________MAIN BODY PANELS________ROWS_  NEEDLES

11.50 : Total Length (front)     098      ---

13.50 : Total Length (back)      115      ---

04.00 : Waist Length             034      ---

04.00 : Inseam Length (front)    034      ---

06.00 : Inseam Length (back)     051      ---

00.50 : Crotch Shaping Length    004      ---

02.50 : Finished Armhole Length  021      ---

11.00 : Finished Chest Circ.     ---      041

11.00 : Finished Waist Circ.     ---      041

11.00 : Finished Bottom Circ.    ---      041

11.00 : Finished Rib/Hem Circ.   ---      041

01.00 : Leggings Crotch Width    ---      008

04.00 : Shoulder Width           ---      030

00.00 : Shoulder Taper           000      ---

_____________NECKLINES_______________________ 

03.00 : Neckline Width           ---      023

02.00 : Front Neckline Depth     017      ---

01.00 : Back Neckline Depth      009      ---

____________SLEEVE PANELS___________________

04.50 : Sleeve Length           038      ---

02.25 : Mid-Sleeve Length       019      ---

00.50 : Cuff Length             004      ---

05.00 : Upper Arm Circ.         ---      038

04.75 : Mid-Sleeve Circ.        ---      036

04.50 : Lower Arm Circ.         ---      034

04.50 : Cuff Circ.              ---      034

 

   FRONT PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

_ LEFT SIDE ___     ROW     ___ RIGHT SIDE ___

Total  Stop  Start  NUMBER  Start  Stop  Total

=====  ====  =====  ======  =====  ====  =====

18    -021   -004    START    004    021    18

18    -021   -004   < 001 >   004    021    18

19    -021   -003   < 035 >   003    021    19

21    -021   -001   < 037 >   001    021    21

     END LEFT LEG   < 037 >   END RIGHT LEG

    START ARMHOLE   < 076 >   START ARMHOLE

19    -019   -001   < 077 >   001    019    19

18    -018   -001   < 078 >   001    018    18

17    -017   -001   < 079 >   001    017    17

   START NECKLINE   < 080 >   START NECKLINE

15    -017   -003   < 081 >   003    017    15

13    -017   -005   < 082 >   005    017    13

11    -016   -006   < 083 >   006    016    11

10    -016   -007   < 084 >   007    016    10

 9    -016   -008   < 085 >   008    016     9

 8    -016   -009   < 086 >   009    016     8

 7    -016   -010   < 088 >   010    016     7

 6    -015   -010   < 089 >   010    015     6

 5    -015   -011   < 092 >   011    015     5

 5    -015   -011   < 098 >   011    015     5  LAST ROW

 

The front panel is made in left/right sections for a "cardigan-top" effect when attached to the back panel.

 

1.     Cast on 18 stitches on the left side of machine.

2.     Knit straight until row #35 where crotch shaping begins.  Increase stitches as shown until crotch shaping ends at row #37.  

3.   Knit straight until row #77 where outer needles begin decreasing for armhole shaping. 

4.   Begin decreasing inside needles for neckline shaping at row #81.  Continue removing stitches for simultaneous neckline and armhole shaping. 

5.     Take the shoulder stitches off on ravel cord and waste yarn at row #98.

6.     Repeat these directions on the right side of the machine for the other front half-panel.

 

 

   BACK PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

NOTE: Back panel includes extra 2" inseam length to fold for legging socks.

 

_ LEFT SIDE ___     ROW     ___ RIGHT SIDE ___

Total  Stop  Start  NUMBER  Start  Stop  Total

=====  ====  =====  ======  =====  ====  =====

18    -021   -004    START    004    021    18

18    -021   -004   < 001 >   004    021    18

19    -021   -003   < 052 >   003    021    19

20    -021   -002   < 054 >   002    021    20

21    -021   -001   < 055 >   001    021    21

     END LEFT LEG   < 055 >  END RIGHT LEG

    START ARMHOLE   < 093 >  START ARMHOLE

19    -019   -001   < 094 >   001    019    19

18    -018   -001   < 095 >   001    018    18

17    -017   -001   < 097 >   001    017    17

16    -016   -001   < 100 >   001    016    16

   START NECKLINE   < 105 >  START NECKLINE

11    -015   -005   < 106 >   005    015    11

9     -015   -007   < 107 >   007    015     9

8     -015   -008   < 108 >   008    015     8

7     -015   -009   < 109 >   009    015     7

6     -015   -010   < 110 >   010    015     6

5     -015   -011   < 111 >   011    015     5

5     -015   -011   < 115 >   011    015     5  LAST ROW

 

Back Panel  Knitting Description

1.     Cast on 18 sts on the left side of machine. 

2.     Knit straight until row #52 where "crotch" shaping begins.   Increase stitches as shown until row #55 when left side needles are placed on hold. 

3.     Cast on 18 sts on the right side, and knit straight until row #52 where "crotch" shaping begins.  

4.     Increase stitches as shown until row #55 where left side needles are taken out of hold.

5.     Knit straight (needles #-21 to 21) until row #94 where outside needles begin decreasing on both sides as directed for armhole shaping. 

6.     At row #106, begin taking off inside needles for neckline shaping.  Continue removing stitches for simultaneous neckline and armhole shaping. 

7.     Take the shoulder stitches off on ravel cord and waste yarn. 

 

 

SLEEVE PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

         CUFF = 4 ROWS OF 34 STITCHES

_ LEFT SIDE ___     ROW     ___ RIGHT SIDE ___

Total  Stop  Start  NUMBER  Start  Stop  Total

=====  ====  =====  ======  =====  ====  =====

17    -017   -001   START     001    017    17

17    -017   -001   < 001 >   001    017    17

18    -018   -001   < 011 >   001    018    18

19    -019   -001   < 028 >   001    019    19

18    -018   -001   < 037 >   001    018    18

17    -017   -001   < 038 >   001    017    17

15    -015   -001   < 039 >   001    015    15

13    -013   -001   < 040 >   001    013    13

13    -013   -001   < 041 >   001    013    13  LAST ROW

 

1.     Cast on 34 sts (17 needles on each side of machine). 

2.     Knit with increasing stitches at specified rows until "sleeve cap" shaping begins at row #37.  

3.     Decrease outside needles on both sides as directed for rows #38 - #41 for sleeve cap shaping.  

4.     Cast off after row #41, and repeat directions for the second sleeve.

 

Assembly and Trim Description

1)     Front Panels: Make 2 neckline (8 r x 21 sts) and 2 mid-line (8 r x 42 sts) bands which are folded in half to give ½ inch trim widths

2)     Back Panel: Make 1 neckline band (8 r x 30 sts) which is folded in half to give ½ inch trim width.

3)     Sleeve Panels: Make 2 cuff bands (8 r x 34 sts) which are folded in half to give ½ inch widths.

4)     Block all panels to insure proper sizing before attaching trim pieces.

5)     Seam front and back panel shoulders together, using the method you prefer. 

6)     Join the front and back side seams together before joining the inner legging seams from the crotch to the bottom of the front leggings. 

7)     Fold and seam the extra 2" back legging lengths to form 'socks'.

8)     Sew on neckline trims, front bands, and sleeve trim pieces.

9)     Top closures were made from Velcro circles, but buttonholes could also be added to front panel.