DESIGN-A-PATTERN XV
from
Ileen's Needle Nook (www.ileen.com)
written by Mike
and Ileen Levy (ileen@ileen.com)
A one-piece baby outfit was used to illustrate Design-A-Pattern
Volume #5. Bramwell Fine
4-Ply yarn was used for this outfit..
Volume #5 Screen Descriptions
1)
Information Screen Description
Styling was selected on the Information Screen for a 1-piece
sweater with leggings ("onesie").
Adjustable crew necklines (front and back) and rounded armhole shaping
were also selected
2)
Measurements Screen Description
Starter measurements were used for a 16" baby doll. Adjustable starter sizing options are
available for dolls (4 types), babies (3-24 months), toddlers (sizes 2T-5T) and
children (sizes 2-18).
3)
Design Screen Description
Garment panels are displayed to calculate rows and stitches
directly from black pixels on this screen.
Panels are automatically redrawn when measurement or styling options are
changed. For this garment, sizing was adjusted to allow for ½ inch trim
on the front midline, neckline and cuffs.
Extra length was added to back panel inseam to create a 'sock' effect
4)
Graphic and Text Printout Screen Descriptions
The graphics screen is used to create pictures of pattern panels
with various grid overlays while the Text Printout screen is used to create
pattern text directions. Outputs from
both screens can be copied, edited or printed.
The front panel with a row/stitch overlay is shown on the graphics
output screen.
ROW-BY-ROW PATTERN
DIRECTIONS
Design-A-Pattern
row-by-row directions read like a knitting machine showing right-side and
left-side (-) needles for each row when the number of in-work needles increase
or decrease. Straight knitting is used
between listed row numbers. Knitted
rows for body panels are also listed as an alert to start armhole or neckline
shaping.
Knitting
Description for 1-piece Leggings Outfit
Pattern Style : 1-PIECE: LEGGING BOTTOM
Armhole Style : ROUNDED SET-IN
Necklines: Front &
Back = ADJUSTABLE CREW
Yarn Name: Bramwell Fine
4-Ply
Yarn Gauges: 8.5 Rws/Inch
& 7.5 Sts/Inch
MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY
(Inches) PANEL PANEL
________MAIN BODY
PANELS________ROWS_ NEEDLES
11.50 : Total Length
(front) 098 ---
13.50 : Total Length
(back) 115 ---
04.00 : Waist Length 034 ---
04.00 : Inseam Length
(front) 034 ---
06.00 : Inseam Length
(back) 051 ---
00.50 : Crotch Shaping
Length 004 ---
02.50 : Finished Armhole
Length 021 ---
11.00 : Finished Chest
Circ. --- 041
11.00 : Finished Waist
Circ. --- 041
11.00 : Finished Bottom
Circ. --- 041
11.00 : Finished Rib/Hem
Circ. --- 041
01.00 : Leggings Crotch
Width --- 008
04.00 : Shoulder
Width --- 030
00.00 : Shoulder
Taper 000 ---
_____________NECKLINES_______________________
03.00 : Neckline
Width --- 023
02.00 : Front Neckline
Depth 017 ---
01.00 : Back Neckline
Depth 009 ---
____________SLEEVE
PANELS___________________
04.50 : Sleeve Length 038 ---
02.25 : Mid-Sleeve
Length 019 ---
00.50 : Cuff Length 004 ---
05.00 : Upper Arm
Circ. --- 038
04.75 : Mid-Sleeve
Circ. --- 036
04.50 : Lower Arm
Circ. --- 034
04.50
: Cuff Circ. --- 034
FRONT PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP
_ LEFT SIDE ___ ROW
___ RIGHT SIDE ___
Total Stop
Start NUMBER Start
Stop Total
===== ====
===== ====== =====
==== =====
18 -021
-004 START 004
021 18
18 -021
-004 < 001 > 004
021 18
19 -021
-003 < 035 > 003
021 19
21 -021
-001 < 037 > 001
021 21
END LEFT LEG < 037
> END RIGHT LEG
START ARMHOLE < 076
> START ARMHOLE
19 -019
-001 < 077 > 001
019 19
18 -018
-001 < 078 > 001
018 18
17 -017
-001 < 079 > 001
017 17
START NECKLINE < 080
> START NECKLINE
15 -017
-003 < 081 > 003
017 15
13 -017
-005 < 082 > 005
017 13
11 -016
-006 < 083 > 006
016 11
10 -016
-007 < 084 > 007
016 10
9 -016 -008
< 085 > 008 016
9
8 -016 -009
< 086 > 009 016
8
7
-016 -010 < 088 > 010 016 7
6
-015 -010 < 089 > 010 015
6
5
-015 -011 < 092 > 011 015 5
5
-015 -011 < 098 > 011 015 5
LAST ROW
The front panel is made in left/right
sections for a "cardigan-top" effect when attached to the back panel.
1.
Cast
on 18 stitches on the left side of machine.
2.
Knit
straight until row #35 where crotch shaping begins. Increase stitches as shown until crotch shaping ends at row
#37.
3. Knit straight until row #77
where outer needles begin decreasing for armhole shaping.
4. Begin decreasing inside
needles for neckline shaping at row #81.
Continue removing stitches for simultaneous neckline and armhole
shaping.
5.
Take
the shoulder stitches off on ravel cord and waste yarn at row #98.
6.
Repeat
these directions on the right side of the machine for the other front
half-panel.
BACK PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS -
BOTTOM-TO-TOP
NOTE:
Back panel includes extra 2" inseam length to fold for legging socks.
_ LEFT SIDE ___ ROW
___ RIGHT SIDE ___
Total Stop
Start NUMBER Start
Stop Total
===== ====
===== ====== =====
==== =====
18 -021
-004 START 004
021 18
18 -021
-004 < 001 > 004
021 18
19 -021
-003 < 052 > 003
021 19
20 -021
-002 < 054 > 002
021 20
21 -021
-001 < 055 > 001
021 21
END LEFT LEG < 055
> END RIGHT LEG
START ARMHOLE < 093
> START ARMHOLE
19 -019
-001 < 094 > 001
019 19
18 -018
-001 < 095 > 001
018 18
17 -017
-001 < 097 > 001
017 17
16 -016
-001 < 100 > 001
016 16
START NECKLINE < 105
> START NECKLINE
11 -015 -005 < 106 > 005
015 11
9 -015
-007 < 107 > 007
015 9
8 -015
-008 < 108 > 008
015 8
7 -015
-009 < 109 > 009
015 7
6 -015
-010 < 110 > 010
015 6
5 -015
-011 < 111 > 011
015 5
5 -015
-011 < 115 > 011
015 5 LAST ROW
Back Panel Knitting Description
1.
Cast
on 18 sts on the left side of machine.
2.
Knit
straight until row #52 where "crotch" shaping begins. Increase stitches as shown until row #55 when
left side needles are placed on hold.
3.
Cast
on 18 sts on the right side, and knit straight until row #52 where
"crotch" shaping begins.
4.
Increase
stitches as shown until row #55 where left side needles are taken out of hold.
5.
Knit
straight (needles #-21 to 21) until row #94 where outside needles begin
decreasing on both sides as directed for armhole shaping.
6.
At
row #106, begin taking off inside needles for neckline shaping. Continue removing stitches for simultaneous
neckline and armhole shaping.
7.
Take
the shoulder stitches off on ravel cord and waste yarn.
SLEEVE PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP
CUFF = 4 ROWS OF 34 STITCHES
_
LEFT SIDE ___ ROW ___ RIGHT SIDE ___
Total Stop
Start NUMBER Start
Stop Total
===== ====
===== ====== =====
==== =====
17 -017
-001 START 001
017 17
17 -017
-001 < 001 > 001
017 17
18 -018
-001 < 011 > 001
018 18
19 -019
-001 < 028 > 001 019 19
18 -018
-001 < 037 > 001
018 18
17 -017
-001 < 038 > 001
017 17
15 -015
-001 < 039 > 001
015 15
13 -013
-001 < 040 > 001
013 13
13 -013
-001 < 041 > 001
013 13 LAST ROW
1.
Cast
on 34 sts (17 needles on each side of machine).
2.
Knit
with increasing stitches at specified rows until "sleeve cap" shaping
begins at row #37.
3.
Decrease
outside needles on both sides as directed for rows #38 - #41 for sleeve cap
shaping.
4.
Cast
off after row #41, and repeat directions for the second sleeve.
Assembly
and Trim Description
1)
Front
Panels: Make 2 neckline (8 r x 21 sts) and 2 mid-line (8 r x 42 sts) bands
which are folded in half to give ½ inch trim widths
2)
Back
Panel: Make 1 neckline band (8 r x 30 sts) which is folded in half to give ½
inch trim width.
3)
Sleeve
Panels: Make 2 cuff bands (8 r x 34 sts) which are folded in half to give ½
inch widths.
4)
Block
all panels to insure proper sizing before attaching trim pieces.
5)
Seam
front and back panel shoulders together, using the method you prefer.
6)
Join
the front and back side seams together before joining the inner legging seams
from the crotch to the bottom of the front leggings.
7)
Fold
and seam the extra 2" back legging lengths to form 'socks'.
8)
Sew
on neckline trims, front bands, and sleeve trim pieces.
9)
Top
closures were made from Velcro circles, but buttonholes could also be added to
front panel.