XV PRINTOUT 3

DESIGN-A-PATTERN XV

from Ileen's Needle Nook (www.ileen.com)

written by Mike and Ileen Levy (ileen@ileen.com)

A curved yoke sweater is used to illustrate the use of Design-A-Pattern Volume #3. This pullover sweater was knitted using stockinette stitches on a standard gauge machine (200 needles). The yoke was knitted in four sections although two half panels could be used if smaller sizes or bulkier yarn were selected. Graphic designs were from Joyce Schneider's pattern book - "Fairisle Yokes". Optional neckline and bottom trims were added.

Volume #3 Screen Descriptions

1) Information Screen Description

Selections were entered on the Information Screen for a yoke neck style, raglan armhole and adjustable crew necklines (front and back). Two swatches of Tamm Diamante yarn were knitted since the yoke with fairisle designs had different gauges than the other solid-color panels.

2) Measurements Screen Description

Starter sizing was selected to enter measurements for a Women's size 34 (38" chest). The printout lists all measurements used for this sweater example.

3) Design Screen Description

Garment panels are displayed to calculate rows and stitches directly from black pixels on this screen. Although yokes are drawn to a smaller scale than other panels due to their extra width, the program compensates to give proper row/stitch directions for printouts. Panels are automatically redrawn when measurement or styling options are changed.

4) Graphic and Text Printout Screen Descriptions

The graphics screen is used to create pictures of pattern panels with various grid overlays while the Text Printout screen is used to create pattern text directions. Outputs from both screens can be copied, edited or printed. For this example, the yoke panel was calculated and printed separately since it had different yarn gauges than the other panels.

ROW-BY-ROW PATTERN DIRECTIONS

Customer Name : News and Views Article #4

Pattern Name : DAP XV Example for Volume #3

Pattern Style : YOKE NECK Armhole Style : RAGLAN ARMHOLE

Front Neckline: FRONT: ADJUSTABLE CREW Back Neckline : BACK: ADJUSTABLE CREW

Yarn Name : Tamm Diamante

Yarn Gauges : YOKE PANEL : 10.0 Rows/Inch 9.0 Sts/Inch

OTHER PANELS: 12.0 Rows/Inch 9.0 Sts/Inch

MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY (Inches) PANEL PANEL

__________MAIN BODY PANELS_________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__

20.00 : Total Length (With Ribbing/Hem) 240 ---

15.00 : Waist Length 180 ---

02.00 : Bottom Ribbing/Hem Length 024 ---

38.00 : Finished Chest Circumference --- 171

38.00 : Finished Waist Circumference --- 171

38.00 : Finished Bottom Circumference --- 171

38.00 : Finished Rib/Hem Circumference --- 171

07.50 : Finished Armhole Depth 090 ---

15.20 : Shoulder Width --- 137

06.00 : Yoke Length 072 ---

_____________NECKLINES_____________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__

08.00 : Neckline Width --- 072

02.00 : Front Neckline Depth 024 ---

02.00 : Back Neckline Depth 024 ---

____________SLEEVE PANELS__________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__

05.00 : Length from Armhole (with Cuff) 060 ---

02.00 : Mid-Sleeve Length 024 ---

01.00 : Cuff Length 012 ---

15.00 : Upper Arm Circumference --- 135

12.45 : Mid-Sleeve Circumference --- 112

10.00 : Lower Arm Circumference --- 090

09.00 : Cuff Circumference --- 081

Design-A-Pattern row-by-row directions read like a knitting machine showing right-side and left-side (-) needles for each row when the number of in-work needles increase or decrease. Straight knitting is used between listed row numbers. Knitted rows for body panels are also listed as an alert to start armhole or neckline shaping.

FRONT AND BACK PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

RIBBING = 24 ROWS OF 171 STITCHES

____ LEFT SIDE ____ ROW ____ RIGHT SIDE ___

Total Stop Start NUMBER Start Stop Total

===== ==== ===== ====== ===== ==== =====

86 -086 -001 START 001 086 86

86 -086 -001 < 001 > 001 086 86

START "NECKLINE" SHAPING

70 -086 -017 < 120 > 017 086 70

60 -086 -027 < 121 > 027 086 60

53 -086 -034 < 122 > 034 086 53

47 -086 -040 < 123 > 040 086 47

42 -086 -045 < 124 > 045 086 42

38 -086 -049 < 125 > 049 086 38

START ARMHOLE SHAPING

34 -085 -052 < 126 > 052 085 34

31 -085 -055 < 127 > 055 085 31

27 -084 -058 < 128 > 058 084 27

25 -084 -060 < 129 > 060 084 25

21 -083 -063 < 130 > 063 083 21

19 -083 -065 < 131 > 065 083 19

17 -082 -066 < 132 > 066 082 17

14 -081 -068 < 133 > 068 081 14

13 -081 -069 < 134 > 069 081 13

10 -080 -071 < 135 > 071 080 10

9 -080 -072 < 136 > 072 080 9

7 -079 -073 < 137 > 073 079 7

5 -078 -074 < 139 > 074 078 5

4 -078 -075 < 140 > 075 078 4

3 -077 -075 < 141 > 075 077 3

3 -077 -075 < 144 > 075 077 3 LAST ROW

Front and Back Panel Knitting Descriptions

Cast on 172 stitches (86 needles on each side of the machine) and knit straight until "neckline" shaping begins at row #120 where 34 inside needles are taken out-of-work (17 on each side of the bed). Continue taking inside needles out-of-work on both sides as directed over the final 24 rows to complete shaping to add the yoke panel. Outside needles are also removed on both sides over the last 20 rows for armhole shaping. The remaining 3 needles in work are cast-off on both sides of the bed to complete the front panel. Repeat these directions for the back panel.

SLEEVE PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

CUFF = 12 ROWS OF 81 STITCHES

____ LEFT SIDE ____ ROW _____ RIGHT SIDE ____

Total Stop Start NUMBER Start Stop Total

===== ==== ===== ====== ===== ==== =====

45 -045 -001 START 001 045 45

46 -046 -001 < 002 > 001 046 46

47 -047 -001 < 004 > 001 047 47

48 -048 -001 < 006 > 001 048 48

49 -049 -001 < 008 > 001 049 49

50 -050 -001 < 011 > 001 050 50

51 -051 -001 < 013 > 001 051 51

52 -052 -001 < 015 > 001 052 52

53 -053 -001 < 017 > 001 053 53

54 -054 -001 < 020 > 001 054 54

55 -055 -001 < 022 > 001 055 55

56 -056 -001 < 024 > 001 056 56

57 -057 -001 < 026 > 001 057 57

58 -058 -001 < 028 > 001 058 58

59 -059 -001 < 030 > 001 059 59

60 -060 -001 < 032 > 001 060 60

61 -061 -001 < 033 > 001 061 61

62 -062 -001 < 036 > 001 062 62

63 -063 -001 < 038 > 001 063 63

64 -064 -001 < 040 > 001 064 64

65 -065 -001 < 042 > 001 065 65

66 -066 -001 < 044 > 001 066 66

67 -067 -001 < 046 > 001 067 67

68 -068 -001 < 048 > 001 068 68

67 -067 -001 < 049 > 001 067 67

66 -066 -001 < 050 > 001 066 66

65 -065 -001 < 052 > 001 065 65

64 -064 -001 < 053 > 001 064 64

63 -063 -001 < 055 > 001 063 63

62 -062 -001 < 056 > 001 062 62

61 -061 -001 < 057 > 001 061 61

60 -060 -001 < 059 > 001 060 60

59 -059 -001 < 060 > 001 059 59

58 -058 -001 < 061 > 001 058 58

57 -057 -001 < 062 > 001 058 58

56 -056 -001 < 064 > 001 056 56

55 -055 -001 < 066 > 001 055 55 LAST ROW

Sleeve Panel Knitting Description

Cast on 90 stitches (45 needles on each side of the machine), and increase 1 stitch on each side as directed for sleeve shaping. Repeat increases as directed until there are 136 stitches at row #48 (68 needles on each side of the bed). Begin decreasing stitches as directed for armhole shaping until 110 stitches are cast-off at row #66. Repeat these directions for the second sleeve.

YOKE PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

PATTERN NOTES:

STITCHES EXCEED AVAILABLE NEEDLES!

KNIT AND JOIN TWO HALF PANELS FOR FRONT AND BACK YOKE PANELS.

YOKE SECTION LENGTHS:

Yoke Section 1 = 0.50 Inches (5 Rows)

Yoke Section 2 = 1.00 Inches (10 Rows)

Yoke Section 3 = 1.00 Inches (10 Rows)

Yoke Section 4 = 1.50 Inches (15 Rows)

Yoke Section 5 = 2.00 Inches (20 Rows)

ROUNDED YOKE PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

_____ PANEL LEFT _____ ROW _____ PANEL RIGHT _____

Total Stop Start NUMBER Start Stop Total

===== ==== ===== ====== ===== ==== =====

START SECTION #5: CAST ON 130 STS FOR EACH YOKE HALF-PANEL BOTTOM

130 -099 030 < 001 > -030 099 130

START SECTION #4: DEC 31 STS EVENLY ACROSS ROW #20 FOR EACH HALF-PANEL

100 -069 030 < 020 > -030 069 100

START SECTION #3: DEC 22 STS EVENLY ACROSS ROW #35 FOR EACH HALF-PANEL

077 -046 030 < 035 > -030 046 077

START SECTION #2: DEC 15 STS EVENLY ACROSS ROW #45 FOR EACH HALF-PANEL

061 -030 030 < 045 > -030 030 061

START SECTION #1: DEC 15 STS EVENLY ACROSS ROW #55 FOR EACH HALF-PANEL

045 -014 030 < 055 > -030 014 045

FINISH SECTION #1: DEC 7 STS EVENLY ACROSS ROW #60 FOR EACH HALF-PANEL

038 -007 030 < 060 > -030 007 038

KNIT 1 EXTRA ROW BEFORE ADDING NECKLINE TRIM (ROW #61 = 38 STS/HALF-PANEL)

Yoke Panel Knitting Description

1. Starting with waste yarn and ravel cord, cast on 130 sts (left side of the knitting machine: needle -99 to +30).

2. Knit straight for 20 rws before decreasing 31 sts evenly across row #20. (*)

3. Knit straight for 15 rws before decreasing 22 sts evenly across row #35. (*)

4. Knit straight for 10 rws before decreasing 15 sts evenly across row #45. (*)

5. Knit straight for 10 rws before decreasing 15 sts evenly across row #55. (*)

6. Knit straight for 5 rws before decreasing 7 sts evenly across row #60. (*)

7. Take off open neckline stitches on ravel cord and waste yarn, and repeat 2nd half of the front yoke panel on the right side of the knitting machine.

8. Seam the two half panels to form the front yoke.

9. Repeat directions to form the back yoke panel.

(*) Note: Straight knitting for each yoke section includes one solid color row at the beginning and end to separate fairisle designs.

Assembly Description

1. Block all panels to insure proper sizing.

2. Ensure front body panel and front yoke panels are centered before attaching them.

3. Ensure back body panel and back yoke panels are centered before attaching them.

4. Seam one front and back panel shoulder together.

5. Hang open neckline stitches to the main bed, and knit one row. Transfer stitches to ribber, and knit a rib trim around the entire neckline.

6. Seam the second shoulder to finish joining front and back panels.

7. Attach sleeve panels to each side of the yoke before seaming sleeves to body panel armholes.

8. Sew the body and sleeve panel side seams.