DESIGN-A-PATTERN XV

DESIGN-A-PATTERN XV

from Ileen's Needle Nook (www.ileen.com)

written by Mike and Ileen Levy (ileen@ileen.com)

 

A formal knitted straight skirt is used to illustrate the use of Design-A-Pattern Volume #2.  This straight skirt was knitted on a standard gauge machine with 200 needles.  The front panel was made from two half panels seamed waist-to-knee.  The back panel was knit in one piece, but larger sizes would join two half panels.  A folded waistband was included.  A bottom trim is optional for the hem.  Though not used for this article, a shell top was also created for the pictured outfit using Volume #1.  The top was knitted with a cable and lace pattern from Ileen Levy's book - "For the Love of Cables".

 

Volume #2 Screen Descriptions

1) Information Screen Tab

Style selections were entered on the Information Screen  for a Straight Skirt with Rounded Hip Shaping.  Culotte Shorts and Regular Briefs were selected as default pants styles.  Yarn gauges were determined from a swatch of gold Glitterwell yarn (discontinued by Bramwell).

 

2) Measurements Screen Tab

Starter sizing was selected to enter measurements for the 26" waist skirt pattern developed for this article.  The printout lists measurements used for the skirt.

 

3) Design Screen Tab

As shown below, garment panels are displayed to calculate rows and stitches directly from black pixels on this screen.   Panels are redrawn by adjusting any measurement or changing styling options. 

 

4) Graphic and Text Printout Screen Tabs

The graphics screen is used to create pictures of pattern panels with various grid overlays (including "cut-n-sew templates").  The Text Printout screen is used to create pattern directions.  Outputs from both screens can be copied, edited or printed.

 

ROW-BY-ROW PATTERN DIRECTIONS

 

Customer Name : News and Views Article

Pattern Name  : DAP XV Example for Volume #2

Pants Style   : Straight Skirt

Name of Yarn  : Bramwell Glitterwell

Yarn Gauges

Row Gauge    = 10.00 Rows/Inch   

Stitch Gauge = 10.40 Sts/Inch

Tension Settings:

Main Bed = 5.0  

Ribber   = Not Used

 

MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY (Inches)        PANEL      PANEL

_______SKIRT PANELS___________    ___ROWS__  __NEEDLES__

29.00 : Skirt Length (*)             290         ---

07.50 : Hip Length (*)               075         ---

00.00 : Hem/Shaping Length           000         ---

02.00 : Waistband Length             020         ---

26.00 : Waistband Circumference      ---         136

26.00 : Waistline Circumference      ---         136

37.00 : Hip Circumference            ---         192

37.00 : Hem Circumference            ---         192

        Total Skirt Panels = 2

 

(*) This measurement includes Waistband and Hem/Cuff lengths.

Note:

Optional Waistline Darts Shown on Row/Stitch Panel Graphics.

  Dart Width  = 2.75 Inches (29 Stitches at Top of Each Dart)

  Dart Length = 3.75 Inches (38 Rows)

 

 

     SKIRT PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

        WAISTBAND = 20 ROWS OF 136 STITCHES

 

_____LEFT SIDE_____   ROW     _____RIGHT SIDE____

Total  Stop   Start  NUMBER   Start  Stop   Total

=====  ====   =====  ======   =====  ====   =====

 96    -096   -001   <START>   001   096    96

 96    -096   -001   < 001 >   001   096    96

KNIT STRAIGHT UNTIL HIP SHAPING STARTS AT ROW 223

 95    -095   -001   < 223 >   001   095    95

 94    -094   -001   < 227 >   001   094    94

 93    -093   -001   < 231 >   001   093    93

 92    -092   -001   < 234 >   001   092    92

 91    -091   -001   < 237 >   001   091    91

 90    -090   -001   < 239 >   001   090    90

 89    -089   -001   < 241 >   001   089    89

 88    -088   -001   < 243 >   001   088    88

 87    -087   -001   < 244 >   001   087    87

 86    -086   -001   < 247 >   001   086    86

 85    -085   -001   < 248 >   001   085    85

 84    -084   -001   < 250 >   001   084    84

 83    -083   -001   < 252 >   001   083    83

 82    -082   -001   < 253 >   001   082    82

 81    -081   -001   < 255 >   001   081    81

 80    -080   -001   < 256 >   001   080    80

 79    -079   -001   < 257 >   001   079    79

 78    -078   -001   < 259 >   001   078    78

 77    -077   -001   < 260 >   001   077    77

 76    -076   -001   < 261 >   001   076    76

 75    -075   -001   < 263 >   001   075    75

 74    -074   -001   < 264 >   001   074    74

 73    -073   -001   < 265 >   001   073    73

 72    -072   -001   < 266 >   001   072    72

 70    -070   -001   < 268 >   001   070    70

 69    -069   -001   < 269 >   001   069    69

 68    -068   -001   < 270 >   001   068    68 

CAST OFF AT ROW 270

 

All Design-A-Pattern row-by-row knitting directions are arranged like a knitting machine showing right-side and left-side (-) needles in-work for each row.  The printout lists row numbers when the number of in-work needles increase or decrease.   Straight knitting is used between listed row numbers.

      

Back Panel Knitting Description

These directions are for "bottom-to-top" knitting from the hemline to waistline. 

1.       Cast on 192 stitches (96 needles on each side of the machine).

2.       Knit straight until directed to begin decreasing at row 223 for hip shaping.

3.       At row 223, decrease 1 outside stitch on both ends of the row.

4.       Knit straight until directed to decrease 1 outside stitch on both ends of row 227.

5.       Continue straight knitting and decreasing outside stitches as directed by the pattern.

6.       After hip-shaping is completed at row 270, take off 136 stitches on waste yarn or garter bar.

Front Panel Knitting Description

These directions are for knitting two half-panels for the split-skirt front panel ("bottom-to-top" knitting).  These half panels will be seamed together from waist to knee during assembly.

Front Half-Panel #1

1.       Cast on 96 stitches on the right side of the knitting machine (needle 1 to 96).

2.       Knit straight until directed to begin outside decreasing at row 223 for hip shaping.

3.       At row 223, decrease 1 outside stitch on the right side of the row.

4.       Knit straight until directed to decrease 1 outside stitch on the right side of row 227.

5.       Continue straight knitting and decreasing outside stitches as directed by the pattern.

6.       After hip-shaping is completed at row 270, take off 68 stitches on waste yarn or garter bar.

Front Half-Panel #2

1.       Cast on 96 stitches on the left side of the knitting machine (needle -1 to -96).

2.       Knit straight until directed to begin outside decreasing at row 223 for hip shaping.

3.       At row 223, decrease 1 outside stitch on the left side of the row.

4.       Knit straight until directed to decrease 1 outside stitch on the left side of row 227.

5.       Continue straight knitting and decreasing outside stitches as directed by the pattern.

6.       After hip-shaping is completed at row 270, take off 68 stitches on waste yarn or garter bar.

Waistband Knitting Description

A waistband can be added in several ways.  With bottom-to-top knitting directions, waistband sections can be added to each panel before removal from the knitting machine. 

However, for this example, front and back waistband sections are knit separately and attached to the front and back panels.  As noted on the row-by-row printout, each waistband strip contains 20 rows of 136 stitches. 

Assembly Description

1.       Block all panels to insure proper sizing.

2.       Seam the straight inner edges of the two front half panels from the waistline to desired length.

3.       Seam the back panel curved edges to the curved outside edges of the seamed front panel.

4.       Seam waistband at the top of the joined panel.

5.       Lay a length of elastic (<1" width) onto the combined waistband sections.

6.       Fold the waistband over the elastic, and sew the folded waistband to the combined panels. 

7.       Sew the edges of the elastic together.

8.       Seam the second back panel, curved edges to the curved outside edges of the seamed front panel, and sew up the waist band seam.