DESIGN-A-PATTERN XV
from
Ileen's Needle Nook (www.ileen.com)
written by Mike
and Ileen Levy (ileen@ileen.com)
A formal knitted straight skirt is used to illustrate the use of Design-A-Pattern
Volume #2. This straight skirt was
knitted on a standard gauge machine with 200 needles. The front panel was made from two half panels seamed
waist-to-knee. The back panel was knit
in one piece, but larger sizes would join two half panels. A folded waistband was included. A bottom trim is optional for the hem. Though not used for this article, a shell
top was also created for the pictured outfit using Volume #1. The top was knitted with a cable and lace
pattern from Ileen Levy's book - "For the Love of Cables".
Volume #2 Screen
Descriptions
1) Information Screen Tab
Style selections were entered on the Information Screen for a Straight Skirt with Rounded Hip
Shaping. Culotte Shorts and Regular
Briefs were selected as default pants styles.
Yarn gauges were determined from a swatch of gold Glitterwell yarn
(discontinued by Bramwell).
2) Measurements Screen Tab
Starter sizing was selected to enter measurements for the 26"
waist skirt pattern developed for this article. The printout lists measurements used for the skirt.
3) Design Screen Tab
As shown below, garment panels are displayed to calculate rows and
stitches directly from black pixels on this screen. Panels are redrawn by adjusting any measurement or changing
styling options.
4) Graphic and Text Printout Screen Tabs
The graphics screen is used to create pictures of pattern panels
with various grid overlays (including "cut-n-sew templates"). The Text Printout screen is used to create
pattern directions. Outputs from both
screens can be copied, edited or printed.
ROW-BY-ROW
PATTERN DIRECTIONS
Customer Name : News and
Views Article
Pattern Name : DAP XV Example for Volume #2
Pants
Style : Straight Skirt
Name of Yarn : Bramwell Glitterwell
Yarn Gauges
Row Gauge
= 10.00 Rows/Inch
Stitch Gauge = 10.40 Sts/Inch
Tension
Settings:
Main Bed = 5.0
Ribber =
Not Used
MEASUREMENTS
SUMMARY (Inches) PANEL PANEL
_______SKIRT
PANELS___________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__
29.00
: Skirt Length (*) 290 ---
07.50
: Hip Length (*) 075 ---
00.00
: Hem/Shaping Length 000 ---
02.00
: Waistband Length 020 ---
26.00
: Waistband Circumference --- 136
26.00
: Waistline Circumference --- 136
37.00
: Hip Circumference --- 192
37.00
: Hem Circumference --- 192
Total Skirt Panels = 2
(*)
This measurement includes Waistband and Hem/Cuff lengths.
Note:
Optional
Waistline Darts Shown on Row/Stitch Panel Graphics.
Dart Width
= 2.75 Inches (29 Stitches at Top of Each Dart)
Dart Length = 3.75 Inches (38 Rows)
SKIRT PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS -
BOTTOM-TO-TOP
WAISTBAND = 20 ROWS OF 136 STITCHES
_____LEFT
SIDE_____ ROW _____RIGHT SIDE____
Total Stop
Start NUMBER Start
Stop Total
===== ====
===== ====== =====
==== =====
96
-096 -001 <START> 001 096 96
96
-096 -001 < 001 > 001 096 96
KNIT
STRAIGHT UNTIL HIP SHAPING STARTS AT ROW 223
95
-095 -001 < 223 > 001 095 95
94
-094 -001 < 227 > 001 094 94
93
-093 -001 < 231 > 001 093 93
92
-092 -001 < 234 > 001 092 92
91
-091 -001 < 237 > 001 091 91
90
-090 -001 < 239 > 001 090 90
89
-089 -001 < 241 > 001 089 89
88
-088 -001 < 243 > 001 088 88
87
-087 -001 < 244 > 001 087 87
86
-086 -001 < 247 > 001 086 86
85
-085 -001 < 248 > 001 085 85
84
-084 -001 < 250 > 001 084 84
83
-083 -001 < 252 > 001 083 83
82
-082 -001 < 253 > 001 082 82
81
-081 -001 < 255 > 001 081 81
80
-080 -001 < 256 > 001 080 80
79
-079 -001 < 257 > 001 079 79
78
-078 -001 < 259 > 001 078 78
77
-077 -001 < 260 > 001 077 77
76
-076 -001 < 261 > 001 076 76
75 -075 -001
< 263 > 001 075
75
74
-074 -001 < 264 > 001 074 74
73
-073 -001 < 265 > 001 073 73
72
-072 -001 < 266 > 001 072 72
70
-070 -001 < 268 > 001 070 70
69
-069 -001 < 269 > 001 069 69
68
-068 -001 < 270 > 001 068 68
CAST OFF AT ROW 270
All Design-A-Pattern
row-by-row knitting directions are arranged like a knitting machine showing
right-side and left-side (-) needles in-work for each row. The printout lists row numbers when the
number of in-work needles increase or decrease. Straight knitting is used between listed row numbers.
Back
Panel Knitting Description
These
directions are for "bottom-to-top" knitting from the hemline to
waistline.
1.
Cast
on 192 stitches (96 needles on each side of the machine).
2.
Knit
straight until directed to begin decreasing at row 223 for hip shaping.
3.
At
row 223, decrease 1 outside stitch on both ends of the row.
4.
Knit
straight until directed to decrease 1 outside stitch on both ends of row 227.
5.
Continue
straight knitting and decreasing outside stitches as directed by the pattern.
6.
After
hip-shaping is completed at row 270, take off 136 stitches on waste yarn or
garter bar.
Front
Panel Knitting Description
These
directions are for knitting two half-panels for the split-skirt front panel
("bottom-to-top" knitting).
These half panels will be seamed together from waist to knee during
assembly.
Front
Half-Panel #1
1.
Cast
on 96 stitches on the right side of the knitting machine (needle
1 to 96).
2.
Knit
straight until directed to begin outside decreasing at row 223 for hip shaping.
3.
At
row 223, decrease 1 outside stitch on the right side of the row.
4.
Knit
straight until directed to decrease 1 outside stitch on the right
side of row 227.
5.
Continue
straight knitting and decreasing outside stitches as directed by the pattern.
6.
After
hip-shaping is completed at row 270, take off 68 stitches on waste yarn or
garter bar.
Front
Half-Panel #2
1.
Cast
on 96 stitches on the left side of the knitting machine (needle
-1 to -96).
2.
Knit
straight until directed to begin outside decreasing at row 223 for hip shaping.
3.
At
row 223, decrease 1 outside stitch on the left side of the row.
4.
Knit
straight until directed to decrease 1 outside stitch on the left
side of row 227.
5.
Continue
straight knitting and decreasing outside stitches as directed by the pattern.
6.
After
hip-shaping is completed at row 270, take off 68 stitches on waste yarn or
garter bar.
Waistband
Knitting Description
A waistband
can be added in several ways. With
bottom-to-top knitting directions, waistband sections can be added to each
panel before removal from the knitting machine.
However,
for this example, front and back waistband sections are knit separately and attached
to the front and back panels. As noted
on the row-by-row printout, each waistband strip contains 20 rows of 136
stitches.
Assembly
Description
1.
Block
all panels to insure proper sizing.
2.
Seam
the straight inner edges of the two front half panels from the waistline to
desired length.
3.
Seam
the back panel curved edges to the curved outside edges of the seamed front
panel.
4.
Seam
waistband at the top of the joined panel.
5.
Lay
a length of elastic (<1" width) onto the combined waistband sections.
6.
Fold
the waistband over the elastic, and sew the folded waistband to the combined
panels.
7.
Sew
the edges of the elastic together.
8.
Seam
the second back panel, curved edges to the curved outside edges of the seamed
front panel, and sew up the waist band seam.